The Birth of a Floating City
Venice was established in the 5th century by individuals fleeing barbarian invasions and the fall of the Roman Empire. The lagoon was strategically located three miles from the Italian mainland. Sandbars to the east and south of the lagoon area provided a natural buffer to the Adriatic Sea.
The settlers not only evaded the barbarians, but they also harvested fish and salt from the local waters. Salt was as valuable as gold in the 6th century. Driven by this lucrative trade, Venice grew rapidly and transformed into a powerful global port.
Built on an Underground Forest
Venice is supported by an incredible underground forest of pine. Long poles, fabricated from local trees, were driven through the mud into a dense layer of compact clay called caranto, located approximately 18 feet deep. Because these wooden poles are entirely submerged and deprived of oxygen, the wood petrified instead of rotting. They have continued to support the massive stone and brick structures of the city for over 1,000 years.
During the golden age of Venice, several magnificent churches and residences were built. Piazza San Marco, bordered by grand government buildings and a magnificent cathedral, greeted incoming foreign ships. The first coffee shop in history to permit women is located right on the square. You can still stop by today, though you might pay an exorbitantly expensive price for a glass of wine or a cup of coffee!
And there’s the rub: Venice is a tourist Mecca. It is a true bucket-list location, but those quaint, winding, narrow streets aren’t quite so quaint when they are teeming with tourists. Endless souvenir shops staffed by disengaged clerks can further reduce the charm.
I found the perfect time to walk the streets of Venice was between 5:00 AM and 8:00 AM. The city is just starting to come to life, the streets are entirely empty, and the sound of water lapping at the piers is deeply meditative. The early morning mist blurs the horizon, making the Venetian landscape feel surreal, soft, and beautifully mysterious.
Our hotel was right on the Grand Canal, and our weekend in the city luckily coincided with the Regata Storica (the Historical Regatta). I was able to stand out on the balcony of our hotel and watch the vibrant parade of historic boats and high-energy races.
A Serene Escape
The absolute highlight of my time was a day trip to the small island of San Lazzaro. It has been home to a monastic order of Armenian Catholics since 1717. Today, only eight monks reside there. For the last 300 years, these monks have protected the largest and most sacred collection of Armenian books and art in the world.
The libraries hold more than 180,000 printed volumes, including 30,000 European books printed prior to 1800. Over 4,500 ancient Armenian, Arabic, Persian, and Ethiopian manuscripts are carefully stored in a temperature and humidity-controlled library.
The island was incredibly serene. The arcade surrounding the main cloister was simply designed using classic Doric columns, facilitating quiet meditation. The walls of the arcade also house an extraordinary collection of archaeological fragments, featuring Phoenician inscriptions and early Christian carvings. A stunning Roman statue from the 1st century is even on display along the south walkway.
In contrast, the other small islands located along the water bus route felt a bit kitschy. They were pleasant to visit, but felt strangely unreal in a Stepford Wives kind of way.
Is Venice Worth Your Time
If you’re traveling through Italy, a day trip to Venice is well worth the investment. On a warm summer day, hop on the water buses—they are reasonably priced—and explore the canals and nearby islands. An architectural or specialized civil engineering tour would absolutely delight any budding metropolitan planners in your group.
On a beautiful day, just take a deep breath. View the long lines and crowded cafes as part of the unique charm, pay a bit more than you want to for a glass of wine, and simply soak in the feel of Piazza San Marco.
The city can be absolutely perfect if you put yourself in the right mindset.