There are many fascinating places, figures and foods in Israel. Our trip started in Jerusalem on a brisk and windy day.
We left for Mt Olive where the winds were gusting at over 20mph. The vista from the hilltop is magnificent. It captures a slice of history. Predominant in the picture is the Dome of the Rock situated on Temple Mount. The octagonal building was initially completed in 691 and rebuilt after the dome collapsed in 1032. It is one of the oldest existing Islamic structures. The Byzantine style is very ornate with beautiful mosaics and Arabic script adorning the cornices. The dome was gilded in gold in 1993.
The Dome of the Rock is built over the “foundation stone”. Jews, Christians and Muslims believe Abraham attempted to sacrifice his son, Jacob, on this stone. Jews also believe this is the junction between heaven and earth, the Axis Mundi, and therefore the most sacred site, The Holy of Holies.
Muslims believe Mohammed ascended into heaven from this stone. It was one of the three holiest sites in Islam. Currently, the WAQF, an Islamic council funded by Jordan controls the entire Temple Mount, including the Dome of the Rock.
Since the second Intifada, in 2000, only Muslims have been permitted to enter the mosque. A Muslim code of conduct is enforce on the Temple Mount. When we were snapping photos, a gentleman on our tour put his arm around his Wife. He was immediately chastised and told touching was not allowed.
Temple Mount is an incredible construction project. Herod, in an effort to appease the populace and his gods, expanded the Temple Mount in 19 BC to an area of 37 acres. The trapezoidal base is 480 meters on its longest side. The platform is built up on a series of arches with mammoth 33 X 6 x 10 ft stone slabs forming the outer walls. Each of these stones weigh the same as two jumbo jets. The wall at its peak, rises 15 stories from the valley floor.
Model of Temple Mount at the Israel Museum
Jerusalem has been built up around Temple Mount. Only a small potion of the western wall is visible and accessible. This is the “wailing wall”. Jews can be found ptaying at this site 24 hours a day. Since only Muslims are allowed to pray on the Temple Mount, the western wall is the closest a Jew can get to the Holy of Holies.
The overlapping sacred historical sites and the convoluted governance of the Temple Mount is representative of the complexity of the Mideast. Unraveling the history and trying to gain perspective is a challenge.
Next time, a look at the foods and flavors of Jerusalem.