Jungfraujoch
We set off a bit early from Bern to Jungfraujoch, the “top of Europe”. It’s a popular destination especially for Asians and Indians. Many of the Baliwood films feature romantic encounters on snow covered slopes.
The cog railway was an entrepreneurial feat of of the late 1800’s. Adolf Guyer imagined a route to transport people up to the view the Aletsch Glacier, Europe’s longest glacier at 22 km. Planning started in 1893, construction began in July 1896 and the Kleine Scheidegg-Eigergletscher section opened in September 1989.
Italians labor did the excavation and laying of track. About 10% of the workers were killed in accidents related to the construction. Workers were paid four francs a day.
By 1905, another section to Eismeer, had been completed. On August 1, 1912, the final station Jungfraujoch opened. It took 16 years and 16 million francs, double the initial estimate. Switzerland is home to the highest altitude railway in Europe at 3454 m.
Jungfraujoch is both a tourist draw and home to a high altitude research station. The research station was opened in 1931. Scientists from all over the world has gone there to study the effects of high altitude, meteorology and climate change. Though with the emergence of the World Wide Web, researchers are more frequently observing phenomena from their local labs on a computer screen.
The scenery is breath taking. The area is dotted with well maintained hiking trails that welcome even the less than hardy hiker as you can typically use local mountain transport, cog railways and cable cars to ascend steep sections of terrain.
Jungfraujoch was a bit too touristy for me. I would have preferred an afternoon hike departing from one of the stations on the way to the peak. However, the number of tourists and the size of the complex was impressive. It is a major tourist draw.
Einstein Museum in Bern
We had a morning visit to Bern’s museum. They have an excellent Einstein exhibit complete with hauntingly beautiful music.
There were liturgical garments on display as part of the historical treasures. The vestments were beautiful with rich deep reds, interesting patterns and gold thread highlighting areas of the robe.
Gruyere
On the way to Geneva, we stopped for a traditional Swiss lunch in Gruyere in the canton of Fribourg. Entering the canton, the signs suddenly switch from German to French. The Swiss do not have bilingual signs even though the have four official languages. The exception of course, is several signs which provide an English translation.
In 2001, Gruyère gained the Appellation d’origine contrôlée status. Since then the production and the maturation of Gruyere cheese is defined in the Swiss law, and all Swiss Gruyère producers must follow these rules. Gruyere cheese could be described as both sweet and salty, with aging, the cheese becomes earthy and firmer. Typical aging is 5 to 12 months. Raw milk cheese is made from the milk of cows that have exclusively consumed grass. No silage allowed
Our picturesque restaurant featured the local signature dishes raclette and fondue. The raclette is a warmed rectangle of local hard cheese. The melted cheese is scrapped off the top and eaten with boiled potatoes. The fondue had a good consistency but I preferred the flavor of the raclette. The local double cream is delicious. Our dessert that afternoon was meringue with fresh berries and double cream.
The village is in a storybook setting, green hills, cobbled streets, old churches and cows lowing on the pasture. An interesting side note, the Swiss set acreage requirements for live stock. This is specified for cow, pigs, sheep and chicken. There are very few large corporate farms in Switzerland. The Swiss also have a tradition of passing down a farm through the youngest son, not the oldest. Their rationale is compelling, if the eldest son inherits, he might have to relocate or push out any younger siblings. By the time the youngest son is ready to inherit, the eldest have already left and the parents will frequently move into a cozy but small home attached to the main house.
Chillon
The Chillon castle is outside Montreux. Montreux is well known to music aficionados from Deep Purple’s song, Smoke on the water. The opening lyrics are
We all came out to Montreux, on the Lake Geneva shoreline. To make records with a mobile, we didn’t have much time
Deep Purple was in town to record an album the night the Casino burnt to the ground. Their lyrics and song immortalized the town. One of the many reasons Montreux is over run with tourists.
Montreux was popular long before Deep Purple. Empress Elizabeth of Austria, Sisi, frequented the area. She was assassinated along the promenade in Montreux by an Italian anarchist in 1898.
Both Freddy Mercury and Bill Gates had apartments in the town. A statue of Freddy welcomes visitors who arrive by boat.
Just outside of Montreux, you’ll see the Chillon Castle, nestled on the shore of the lake. Chillon began as a Roman outpost, guarding the road which led to the Alpine passes. Later, the castle was built, added to, refined, redecorated and expanded by the Savoy’s, Bernese, and the Vaudois.
The Prisoner of Chillon, written by Lord Byron, inspired scores of visitors. Many of whom, would recite the poem will walking about the infamous column in the castle’s dungeon.
The first records concerning the existence of the castle date to 1005. It was built to control the road from Burgundy to the Great Saint Bernard Pass.
The Bernese captured the castle in 1536 and made several modifications to the structure. Many of these modifications have been removed since 1900 as the castle is being reverted to the style from the Savoy period.
In 1798, the French-speaking Catholic canton of Vaud drove out the German-speaking Protestant Bernese. The Vaudois invited French troops to help them maintain autonomy from the other Swiss.
The Association for the restoration of the castle of Chillon was established in 1887. It’s aim is an “artistic” restoration with a plan for a historical museum and castle. Larger passage ways, created in the 1600’s have been removed. There’s thorough documentation concerning every room and nearly every stone.
It’s worth of visit, but only if you have someone who can infuse the walk through the rooms with energy and historic context. If not, it’s just another castle.
Museum of Science History
In Geneva, set in a grand French home in a beautiful park near the shore of the lake, is the Museum of Science History. The museum is funded by the city. $30million francs have been spent on the restoration of the three story mansion to maintain historical accuracy of the design.
However the attention to architectural detail means there is no elevator and only one toilet. Generally, Switzerland can be challenging if you have mobility issues.
The museum houses a beautiful collection of instrumentation from 17th through 19th centuries. A great docent, thoughtful arrangements of the instruments and the beautiful lakeside setting made the visit a cerebral and sensual delight. The artistry, precision and innovation of the equipment was apparent.
An entire room is dedicated to Horace de Saussure. A geologist, meteorologist, physicist, mountaineer and Alpine explorer, often called the founder of alpinism and modern meteorology. He is the first person to lead a small team up Mont Blanc for scientific and meteorological measurements. He explored and mapped the Alps and lead efforts in 1774 to liberalized and open scientific education.
All that’s left is CERN and glorious food! Bon soir