I loved my time in Iceland, especially Reykjavik. The size of the city, pedestrian areas and location on a harbor, made it an ideal “ walking” venue. The people are very pleasant and interesting. Our tour guide, Linus, described the Icelanders as “ the Italians of the north”. When Icelanders are compared to the Finns, Swedes, Danes and Norwegians, they appear more vivacious, relaxed and talkative.

Ingenuity

Iceland’s Route 1 is an important transportation artery. Volcanic eruptions provoke floods as glaciers melt and an enormous rush of water cascades down the hills. A volcanic eruption in 1993 destroyed three bridges on the important Ring Route. An energetic and practical farmer who lived along the Reykjavik to Vik section of the road, cleared shrubs and created two culverts on either side of a nearby bridge. Though the roadway was damaged due to the redirected water, the bridge was saved. As any Icelandic taxpayer knows, repairing roadway is much less expensive and time

consuming than replacing a bridge. The picture shows the the power of a rushing torrent against steel and concrete.

In January 1973, an unexpected eruption occurred on Heimaey island near the fishing village of Vestmannaeyjar. A giant fissure opened and spewed lava 2,000 ft into the air. The entire population of the island was evacuated, and today the population still hasn’t reach the pre-eruption level. Lava added nearly 1 sq mi to the island, growing it from 4.3 sq mi

5.2 sq mi.

The harbor and town was very important to the fishing industry. The lava flows threatened the total destruction of both. Volunteers laid pipes over the lava flows and pumped sea water into the flow to cool and redirect the lava. Their efforts saved many homes but in March, the lava flows began to threatened to the mouth of the harbor.

Volunteers bombarded the lava flows 24 hours a day for weeks. These efforts proved remarkably successful, as the flow of lava toward the harbor slowed down and ultimately stopped. Rather than destroying the harbor the lava created a kind of new powerful breakwater, protecting the harbor from storms. The pumping of water to cool the flow of lava finally stopped on July 10.

Huldufólk

Huldufólk, Icelandic for hidden people, play a significant role in local lore. The inhospitable terrain and long winter nights have fueled the belief. Elves can take the form of rocks or can be invisible. Today, the majority of Icelanders don’t believe in elves, however, a large portion of the population is unwilling to deny their existence. Even more, people respect the traditions, myths and popular

beliefs. Urban legends and unfortunate accidents while constructing roads and paths have kept the Huldufólk relevant.

A news article from 2012 highlights the hidden people, — THE ELF ROCK GRÁSTEINN An elf rock in Reykjavík suburb of Grafarvogur caused road crews serious trouble. A new bike path had to be re-routed around the rock to appease the elves, and the humans who lobbied on their behalf.

Literature

One in ten Icelanders will publish a book in their lifetime. In addition to writing, they’re voracious readers. Their literary history goes back to Snorri Sturluson, a poet and lawmaker of the 13^th century. He’s credited with committing many of the oral legends to paper as well as writing historical texts.

Linus, our tour guide, recommended a book by a more contemporary author, Independent People, by Halldór Laxness. It was a WONDERFUL read! The protagonist is a farmer, freed from debt bondage but struggling to survive in the inhospitable Icelandic fjord landscape. I had the privilege of reading this book while being in Iceland. The author’s description of the landscape, interwoven with a compelling plot made it difficult to book down the book. I’m able to say I watched the sun set, 12:09 AM and rise, 2:20 AM, because I just had to read one more chapter. Laxness received the Nobel prize for literature in 1955.

Money

This was the first trip where I never handled any local cash or coin. My credit card, conveniently stored on my Apple Watch, was my only method of payment. It was quick and easy. Many credit card companies have dropped foreign transaction fees and the exchange rate is very fair. A plus, or minus, depending on your point of view, is it’s quite easy to determine exactly how much was spent on vacation.

What are the chances

Nearly fifty years ago, I participated in a national science competition. I was one of forty finalists who was flown to Washington DC for the final round of competition and an awards ceremony. (I finished 10^th). During the five days there, I met a young man, Ron Nachman, from San Diego and was instantly smitten. After spending a few days together in Washington, we corresponded for a few months, met for a weekend in San Diego and then headed off to universities in different states. We lost contact.

So, when I heard the name Ron and Izi Nachman at our tour introductory meeting, I did a double take. It was Ron! After nearly fifty years, we were reunited, in Iceland. We were both able to summarize the last half century in less than 40 seconds. We both have had fulfilling professional and personal lives.

Ron and his delightful wife, Izi, live in Houston. I’m hoping we’ll stay in contact.

Picture at the Smithsonian 1972, and Thingvellir National Park, Iceland 2021.