We left Reykjavik and traversed along the southern coast of Iceland. It was a leisurely route with interesting stops and awe inspiring scenery.
The geothermal park (red dot on map) sported a greenhouse which grew tomatoes and grapes as well as rye bread cooked in the thermal pools. The rye bread is quite sweet, dregs from beer malt are used as a leavening agent.
The next stop was the Lava Center, a well designed space dedicated to the history and the science of Icelandic volcanoes. The most deadly volcanic eruption in Iceland’s modern history was the Skaftáreldar in 1783–84. The eruption was southwest of Vatnajökull glacier. Up to ¼ of Iceland’s population perished as a result of the eruption and ensuing famine. Weather patterns throughout the world were disrupted.
From the lava center we traveled to Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall is one of many magnificent waterfalls located in southern Iceland. Seljalandsfoss has a hidden little sister. Less than 2 km away, water tumbles off the plateau and skirts behind the rocks. We were able to hike in and experience the waterfall at its base.
There was a brief stop in Vik, the most southern city on the mainland, then a long drive along the coast where the moss covered lava fields from the 1783 eruptions were visible. The Eldhraun covers 281 square miles and is the largest lava field in the world. The moss covered lava has an eerie other worldly beauty.
We arrived outside of Höfn, at Hotel Hali at dinner time. The area had a large flock of very aggressive birds. The birds would swoop at anyone walking across the open area that was between our rooms and the restaurant. The noisy, obnoxious bird is the Arctic Tern.
The Arctic Tern makes the longest migratory trip of any animal between its breeding ground in the subarctic and arctic region and its winter home, Antarctica. The terns who nest in Iceland make a 44,000 mile round trip each year. They can live for 30 years. This is an web image as it was impossible to photograph the bird while I feared for my life. The flock by our hotel had to be the inspiration for the Alfred Hitchcock movie, The Birds.
The terns don’t look nearly as aggressive in the picture below taken just before leaving Hali.
In the morning, we set off for a boat ride on a glacier lagoon. The transport on the lake was a converted Vietnam era amphibious vehicle. The weather was crisp. The lagoon has been created
by the receding glacier. The lagoon also flows out into the North Atlantic Ocean. If the erosion continues, the lake will eventually become a fjord.
As the glacier erodes, large sections of ice cleave off. The newly formed ice bergs can further subdivide. The center of mass changes as the exposed ice berg melts.
Eventually, the berg will flip, exposing the underside. The newly exposed ice, either from cleaving or flipping has a blue hue. The dense ice, now exposed, absorbs more of the red spectrum, hence the berg appears blue for several hours to a few days. Local water life and micro organisms can also affect the color of freshly exposed ice.
Adjacent to the lagoon is Diamond Beach. Many of the smaller ice bergs are stranded on the black sand beach during low tide. The contrast between the black sand and crystalized ice is striking. As you walk close to the water you can hear the high pitch tones of ice cracking. The colors and the sound combine to give the beach a mystical air.
The Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe. Glaciers covers 11% of Iceland. The eponymously named National park contains the glacier and terrain with waterfalls and hiking trails. The area is popular year round. We hiked one of the shorter trails in the afternoon.
The eroding basalt columns around the waterfall made the short climb worth the effort. These columns, found throughout Iceland, are captured in the architectural style of Reykjavik’s principle Lutheran church.
The hike also showcased Icelandic wildflowers, yellow buttercups and violet Blóðberg, also called Arctic thyme, plus several varieties of sedum and Iceland’s national flower, Holtasóley, the mountain aven.
The trail is well maintained. Recycle plastic matting is used to control erosion and provide a safe path.
You’re also able to hike on the glacier. Several local companies provide equipment and guides. Even though the number of tourists is still down significantly, the access to the glacier over a wooden bridge and up a narrow path was congested. The guides come from all over the world. Glacier hikes were previously staffed by Icelanders, however, the new owner of the enterprise was able to lure young volcanologists and geologists from all over the world. These guides are paid substantially less.
A rare plant, ice mice, thrive on the Icelandic glaciers. These interesting plants rotate and expose all surface area to photosynthesis. Glacier mice are often found teetering on icy pedestals. This reduces the contact between the moss balls and the ice. Over a period of hours and days, the
glacier mouse becomes elevated on a pedestal of ice and it eventually rolls off.
Scientists still haven’t figured out why the glacier mice move in unison. An entire field of mice will relocate in concert for up to 6 years.
The hike to the glacier took us through arctic tundra tundra. I enjoyed walking through the tundra and seeing a wide variety of plants and mosses. sedums.
A picture on the glacier
Hiking up the ice with crampons is much easier than hiking down. Giuseppe, one of our guides was instrumental in getting me down off of the glacier. If not for Giuseppe, I would still be stranded atop Vatnajokull!