Day 4
A Portuguese Stroll
Today was a repositioning trip with classic villages along the way. The first village, Sortelha, is part of the historic line of defense. There is a medieval atmosphere as all the homes and buildings are constructed of granite.
Carla, our guide, said we were off for a stroll about the village. So, I foolishly wore my Birkenstock sandals. She guided us through the town and back to the castle’s defensive walls. We were all invited to walk along the parapet.
Between the 150’ drop, slippery uneven stone surfaces and a steady drizzle, I opted to watch the better equipped and more agile members of the group saunter over the walls.
I did climb to the top of the parapet. Between the drizzle and my dark green raincoat, my image appears as a piece of ancient stone slowly coming to life.
The next stop was Belmonte. It was one of the few historic villages with a reasonable year round population. The bulk of the villages, though wonderfully restored, are empty with a smattering of for sale signs.
Back to Belmonte, famous as the birthplace of Pedro Álvares Cabral, the navigator who discovered Brazil. The local church features a Madonna in black Brazilian wood which Cabral brought back from his evangelizing voyage. The town is also home to the last remaining community of Marranos in Portugal. The Marranos were Jews who were forced to convert to Christianity in the 1400’s but continued to practice Judaism in secret. The group in Belmonte officially returned to Judaism in the 1970’s and opened a synagogue in 1996.
The next stop, Linhares, was situated on the old Roman road that connected Viseu to Guarda. The village was later invaded by the Visigoths and the Moors. The first Portuguese charter was granted in 1169 by King Alfonso Henriques.
After a tough day of touring, we arrived at our accommodation, Casa das Penhas Douradas Design Hotel & Spa, an architecturally interesting and tranquil repurposed sanitarium.
Tomorrow, another hike and a great visit to a local manufacturer. Below, view from my room.
