We took the TGV out of Bayeux, via Paris to our destination of Strasbourg. The Alsace region was created when the land sitting atop two tectonic plate separated and formed the Black Forest and the Vosges Mountain range. In geologic terms, it is a graben. The Vosges, also from a geologic perspective, aren’t mountains. The definition of a graben, courtesy of Wikipedia:
A graben is a valley with a distinct escarpment on each side caused by the displacement of a block of land downward. Graben often occur side by side with horsts. Horst and graben structures indicate tensional forces and crustal stretching.
The fertile plain between the ranges, nourished by the Rhine, has supported agriculture and vineyards for millenniums. The Romans introduced the grape to this region over 2,000 years ago. Bonus trivia, the first area on the globe to produce wine was Georgia, east of Turkey 6,000 years ago.
Strasbourg, and the villages along the wine route in the Vosges, have a distinctive Alsace character, a delightful mélange of French and Prussian culture. In the city, the height of the buildings varies a bit and the roads and walkways are wider, adhering to more or less, a rectangular grid. Compared to Paris, with their circular arrondissements and several streets originating from each plaza, it’s easy very easy to find your way through the city. Strasbourg has many churches, but it’s crown jewel, Notre Dame, with its grand spire and unique reddish brown stone, is visible from over 30 miles away.
Wine Route
The wine route stretches 120 miles and is west of Strasbourg. The area has beautiful, small villages. Many families have been making wine and tending their “terroirs” for more than 5 generations. A terroir is a division of the land that has a unique combination of slope, soil and sun. The terroirs can be quite small and the plot is optimized by cultivating the correct variety of grape for the conditions.
More wine trivia, the two most bio diverse wine regions in the world are Alsace and the Napa Valley.
When small villages had the worry about security and mechanization was minimal, the wine press would be located in the village. The local families would share the equipment at the “Vintage”. In French, “vintage” is a unique word that refers to the collection of the grapes.
There are seven grape varieties grown in the region. They are NEVER blended. A Riesling from Alsace will be exclusively Riesling, the subtlety in flavor is a result of the terroir and the weather.
Champagne, by law, can only be produced in Champagne, so in Alsace they make Crémant. The Crémant is very pleasant, especially on a hot summer day. Last night, I had crémant with a peach liquor at dinner.
The wines were delicious and the overview of the history of wine making in the region was fascinating. We sampled about 20 different wines from 3 wineries over a 5 hour period. I’m bringing home a bottle of a Gewurtztraminer and a Grand Cru Zotzenberg Sylvaner. Both wines could be described as slightly dry. The taste was extraordinary and should surprise and delight my friends.
Colmar and more Villages
The next day, we headed back to toward the Vosges. Our tour started in Colmar, a delightful small city 40 minutes from Strasbourg. The town has half timbered houses with decorated window sills. The churches and cathedral have colorful tile roofs.
Colmar was part of the “Dixpolis”, an organization of ten free cities that existed within the Holy Roman Empire. The town was quite wealthy and the wealth is reflected in the beautiful old buildings and the canals.
The sculptor, Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, most well known in the US as the artist behind the Statue of Liberty, was born in Colmar. His home is a museum for some of his many works. The centerpiece of the courtyard is his bronze of “The Three Virtues”. The virtues are Industry, Justice and Patriotism.
Bartholdi served in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 as a squadron leader of the National Guard, and as a liaison officer. As an officer, he took part in the defense of Colmar from Germany.
Distraught over his region’s defeat, Bartholdi constructed a number of monuments celebrating French heroism in the defense against Germany. Many artists of the time, Cezanne and Monet, as examples, fled France or hid in small villages to avoid conscription.
From Colmar, we wandered south and stopped or drove through fairy book towns. The town halls are festooned with geraniums. Every village is clean, tidy and in full bloom with abundant gardens, parks and fountains.
The Alsace version of an English Shandy is a Panaché. The lemonade and beer blend tastes great on a hot day. The local version of pizza, à tarte flambée, is made on a thin, soft crust. The traditional topping is the local white cheese, onions and bacon. The bacon is similar to a diced fatty smoked ham. The tarte goes well with a Panaché.
Haut Koenigsbourg Castle
The model for the castle in the original French version of Beauty and the Beast is located along the wine route in the Vosges. The first records of a castle built by the Hohenstaufens date back to 1147. Castrum Estuphin, sat high above the Alsace plain at an altitude of more than 2200 feet..
This rocky promontory was ideal for observing the main routes in the region, and provided a strategic fall-back point. The fortress changed its name to Koenigsburg (royal castle) around 1157.
The castle was handed over to the Tiersteins by the Habsburgs following its destruction in 1462. They rebuilt and enlarged it, installing a defensive system designed to withstand artillery fire. This was the golden period for the Hohkoenigsburg.
But the new defenses didn’t deter the Swedes, who had intervened during the religious wars of the 1600’s. The castle was pillaged and laid in ruins for over 200 years.
Its ruins were classified as a historical monument in 1862. Three years later, the castle ruins were purchased by the nearby town of Sélestat. Unable to fund the repairs and hoping to curry favor with the Kaiser, as Alsace had been ceded to France at the end of the 30 years war, the ruins were gifted to Wilhelm. He immediately employed architectural and archeological experts to consult on how the castle should be rebuilt to fully reflect its form and function during the 15th century.
Of course the project was over budget and took longer than planned. To add insult to injury, Alsace and the castle were ceded back to the French after WWI.
I marveled at the scale and the recreation of the various rooms of the castle.
It’s a wonderful glimpse into medieval life and worth a short detour if your anywhere near Strasbourg.